NIOD could be accused of being a bit gimmicky with its “drone” delivery technology and the name, Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate ($65) is a tad self-important. But really matters is that this is a damn good eye serum. It firms. It really does.

Although water-based NIOD feels like an oil and, usually, I’m not wild about oils for the eye, but this product completely won me over. It is not greasy, absorbs quickly and is easy to smooth around the entire eye area. Of course the effects are the most important and I found that NIOD kept my lids and under eyes smooth and firm. My eyes are in fairly good shape, but NIOD did more than maintenance — six weeks in, I’m seeing an improvement and know that I will continue to use this eye serum until then bottle is finished.

So what’s with the drones? NIOD encapsulates its peptides in a special polymer that is supposed to target the fibroblast before releasing the active with drone-like precision. The peptides themselves are interesting as well. There’s a new one called methyl-glucoside-6-phosphate and it is credited with boosting collagen (although there isn’t much independent information about it). Ditto Decapeptide-22, a chain of 10 amino acids.

I am on more familiar ground with palmitoyl tripeptide-38, which is the newest power peptide from the makers of Matrixyl, goes by the name of Synth’6 and is supposed to stimulate six major constituents in the skin matrix. And there are several neuro peptides for softening those expression lines including dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate.

More exotic, but ultimately doing a similar job, is snail toxin. Or, to be more precise, a synthetic form of cone snail venom called mu-conotoxin Cniiic. I’ve only come across this once before in a product called TruActivs Tritoxin. Another new find is n-acetyl-glucosamine. This occurs naturally in our bodies, occupying the space in the skin between cells, and is responsible for maintaining the skin’s barrier abilities.

The actives just keep on coming. Worth a call out is darutoside, which comes from a plant called siegesbeckia and is an anti-inflammatory and skin repairer. I was intrigued to learn that polyglucuronic acid is part of a family unknown to science until the 1990s. Described as a mere film-former in some cosmetic formulations, there seems to be much more to it than that, including collagen biosynthesis and skin firming (source). One of the more unusual botanicals here is European ash bark extract (Fraxinus Excelsior). If you are short of dinner party small talk over the holiday season then you can always drop in that this ash tree changes its sex from year to year. More relevant for this review’s purpose, it is a wound healer.

I should point out that there are a few PEGs here, alcohol, acrylates and polymers (but down the list and not obviously used as fillers), as well as the usual suspects in the preservative department. The good far, far outweighs the bad and the quality and quantity of actives are impressive, especially at the price. NIOD is a great new find.

Behind Hand Chemistry is a Canadian outfit called Deciem that likes to pitch itself as “the abnormal beauty company.” Abnormal indeed. At least for it’s almost manic focus on actives (see my review of sister brand NIOD’s eye serum); and how many other lines do you know that focus on hands!

I’ve been testing Hand Chemistry Intense Youth Complex ($20) and it is hands on way, way better than your average drugstore hand cream, nailing it with a combination of amino acids and some well chosen extracts. A medium weight cream, it is rich enough to make hands feel pampered, but leaves no greasy residue.

Hand Chemistry claims that just under 20% of the formula is made up of active ingredients — worth boasting about when you’d be very lucky to get 10% in many drugstore formulas. I found this to be a good workday hand lotion that kept my hands feeling hydrated and supple.

On of the key ingredients is neodermyl, a combination of copper lysinate/prolinate and methylglucose phosphate that is supposed to boost collagen l and collagen ll. Although this is not a big copper peptide gun, it is respectable with two amino acids. In addition, the formula has three other amino acids, proline, alanine and serine.

The main plant extract (plukenetia volubilis) has  fatty acids that are precursers to wound healing and antixodant potency equivalent to vitamin C (source). There are several natural ingredients that assist with water retention: pseudoalteromonas ferment and tremella.

There are a few potential irritants to be aware of: propanediol, alcohol, sodium hydroxide and fragrance. However, I had no adverse effects during my month-long test.

Move over Kim Kardashian, you aren’t the only one to take the perfect selfie. I must admit that my new-found shutter skills come after taking the most appalling pictures of myself. Since it is the season for sending distant relatives selfies wearing their Christmas issue hats, sweaters, whatever, I wasn’t being let off the hook. After several utterly cringe-worthy, hit the delete button now, experiences, I realized that the selfie requires a bit of technique. So, from one who learned the hard way, here are a few tips.

The most important selfie rule is angle. It will take a bit of trial and error to find out what is the most flattering for you. Mine turns out to be slightly above the eyeline and a slight angle pointing down, say 45 degrees. Result: no double chins, dodgy shadows or flared nostrils.

Avoid fluorescent light and if at all possible face natural light full on. If you are at an angle or sideways to a window, the light will fall on your face at an unflattering angle and give the impression of harsh wrinkles.

Work out your look. Do you look better full face to camera, or at a slight turn? Better with a grin from ear to ear or a subtle smirk? Experiment, find out what looks best and then make it all your own.

Oh and the selfie stick is social death.

And once you have perfected your selfie, send them in to Truth In Aging. To get the ball rolling, these are my selfies (before and after figuring it all out).

With the holiday season winding down, tell me, what do you do to keep yourself feeling your best — inside and out — this time of year?

by Sandy Borglum

I used Dr. Gross’ Alpha Beta pads for quite a number of years, both the face and the body pads, and I was impressed with the results. So I was excited to try Dr. Dennis Gross Ferulic Acid + Retinol Brightening Solution ($88 in the shop). 

I am a Caucasian woman with red hair and freckles. I have fairly normal skin — not overly sensitive, but a little oily in the T-zone. I am now in my early 50s and having issues with my freckles. I really don’t mind them, but some of them have become darker and more noticeable as I’ve aged. The freckles under my eyes look like my mascara has smeared. There are freckles that have grown into “patches” on the left and right sides of my face, near my ears, and on my forehead.  Freckles around my lips accentuate any lip lines I’m developing. And mark-free skin is always younger — and healthier — looking.

I love that the serum has ferulic acid and retinol, to address lines and wrinkles. But, since there are other reviews for this product on the TIA site that address the effects of ferulic acid and retinol, I want to focus on the product’s ability to fade spots and even out skin tone.

Among the list of ingredients is potassium azeloyl diglycinate. This is a derivative of azelaic acid, created for a higher solubility in water and better whitening effects.  It also causes less skin irritation. I recognize a number of botanical extracts that are typically used for lightening skin and reducing the appearance of spots, such as licorice root, bearberry (arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract), and arbutin. One of the ingredients I didn’t recognize is morus alba leaf extract. This extract originates from China and is derived from the white mulberry. It’s been used for centuries in their skin care to create the fair, even skin tone they treasure.

Dr. Gross’ solution is also full of antioxidants — obviously ferulic acid, but also salicylic acid (a beta hydroxy acid), derived from willow bark, as well as salix alba bark extract, also from willow bark. In addition to boosting collagen production and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, antioxidants prevent and reduce age spots.

This product is delivered with a dropper — it’s very watery, meaning it’s slippery and it runs — it’s not thick like a cream or viscous like some serums. The box is difficult to read — the type is very small and is either white on bright orange (on the outside of the box) or bright orange on white (on the inside). The directions on the box say, “use daily AM &/or PM….  To target specific areas…apply with enclosed micro fiber pads….” It doesn’t say how much of the solution to use, and it doesn’t give directions on how to use the pads with the solution. There are no instructions included in the box. So I used about half a dropper for my entire face and neck. I tried the pads, but since it was unclear how to use them, I stopped after a few days.

I detected no particular scent to the solution. The solution appears a little cloudy, actually almost a pale orange or yellow, but not much color otherwise. Both morning and evening, I put the solution in my hands, and then applied it to clean dry skin on my face and neck, even my eyelids. It didn’t sting or irritate my face. It has no particular “feel” to it, either; it feels like water, basically. I had to be careful when first using it to make sure it didn’t drip out of my hands.

I used my phone to take before and after photos in my bathroom, so the lighting couldn’t be controlled as well as I’d liked.  In comparing them, I do see that the freckles under my eyes and on my eyelids do appear lighter. Both in the photos and in my mirror, I see an overall improvement in the evening of my skin tone.

I’m not fooling myself into thinking a non-prescription topical can work that aggressively to lighten my freckles — I’m sure I’d have to invest in some peel for that. But I do like how my skin looks more even, and I like how my skin feels — smoother and softer. The pores look smaller, the skin looks more refined. And I’ve received compliments on my skin while using this.

Dr. Dennis Gross Ferulic Acid & Retinol Brightening Solution isn’t cheap: $88.00 for one ounce. I’d like to have more information and instructions on the best way to use this; I’m curious what the pads would have done I have a feeling I could have used less product on my face than I did. If so, the solution would definitely last longer, and that would increase its economic value.

I do see improvement, however. After only 30 days, that’s impressive. I could see myself investing in this solution, but I do want more information about how to best use it before I invest.

We’re at the start of chilly weather and I’m exposed to dry hot air heat at work and home. It’s nice to be toasty but it also adds to my existing dry skin woes. I was looking forward to using Sciote Super Moist Hyaluronic Serum($75 in the shop), hoping and expecting to experience great results. I have used several of Sciote products and have become somewhat of a cheerleader for the brand.

From the first time I used the serum my skin did not experience the soothing sensation of moisturizing. Rather, I felt a film that had a a tight feeling to it. Perhaps that is what this serum is meant to do and others may respond positively to this result. I did not immediately apply moisturizer, wanting to see how the serum felt after a few moments. Within 3 or 4 minutes I really needed to apply a moisturizer. My skin felt extremely dry, as though I had (lightly) applied a mask. This result occurs every time I use the product. Sciote recommends following up with a moisturizer, you can also use alone or as a hydration booster, but I simply cannot use this serum without applying moisturizer. There is nothing about the product or my reaction to it that makes me feel I should not use it. On the contrary, the tightness may be the result of hyalurosmooth, the key to this serum.

Sciote’s Hyaluronic Serum’s most beneficial ingredient is hyalurosmooth, their botanically derived hyaluronic acid, which holds up to 1000 times its weight and draws moisture from the environment to your skin, locking in moisture, filling in fine lines, plumping and smoothing skin. This ingredient makes up 50 percent of the serum. The second key ingredient is MSM which Sciote says is the purest form of sulfur which helps dry skin. 

The product comes in a 1 oz pump. A small amount of the clear fluid is all you need. It is scented with geranium essential oil, which has antibacterial and antimicrobial properties and encourages the regeneration of new cells.

I wish my love affair with Sciote included the Hyaluronic Serum, but it does not. I have a high regard for the brand, and the ingredients in this serum are great. I’m not sure why my results are what they are. Perhaps my over-60 skin is simply too sensitive for an ingredient. I'm still a big fan of their products, but unfortunately this serum doesn’t do it for me. 

It is considered by biologists to be the energy currency of life. No less. It is the high-energy molecule that stores the energy we need to do just about everything we do. What is it? Adenosine triphosphate (ATP).

What is ATP?

Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) is the main energy source for the majority of cellular and muscular functions. This includes the synthesis of DNA. Living things use ATP like a battery – storing and using energy when needed and, it seems, in complex ways (a sprinter will use ATP very differently from a marathon runner).

The ATP molecule is composed of three components.  At the center is a sugar molecule, ribose (the same sugar that forms the basis of DNA).  There is a base (a group consisting of linked rings of carbon and nitrogen atoms); in this case the base is adenine. The third is a string of phosphate groups. These phosphates are the key to the activity of ATP.

Our bodies and ATP

You’d think that something so vital would be stored up. However, we do not store ATP but manufacture it on an as needed basis via ATP Synthesis (ATP Synthase). It is a little like the process of obtaining and storing food and liquids. Although we need them to survive, we do not stash enormous quantities (camels and hibernating bears excepted) but forage for a top up every few hours.

We metabolize ATP as an energy source and then convert it back again so it is continuously recycled. And at quite a rate. The human body on average stores only 250 grams (8.8 oz) of ATP at any one time, but turns over its own body weight equivalent throughout every day.

ATP and aging

Aging is a complex thing and there are lots of things involved, but ATP or the lack

Of it, is a leading factor.

ATP and mitochondria

ATP is synthesized in the mitochondria. I’ve been writing about mitochondria for a while since they are increasingly associated with the aging process. As we age, the mitochondria in our cells develop genetic mutations that cause them to either degenerate or kick the bucket. With our diminished ability to fix these mutations, the mitochondria die and thus our cells die. So focusing on mitochondria health is one way to help keep ATP going. Exercise has a big impact, so start acting on your New Year’s resolutions.

ATP, mitochondria and skincare

Research on the effects on skin is new, but very promising. A study on rabbits encapsulated ATP in lipids and tried it on wound healing claiming that the results were “extremely” fast.

Although rarely appearing as an actual ingredient (an exception that I have found is Dermaquest), there are things that can boost ATP and mitochondria function:

LED

LED, have significant side benefits for ATP synthesis that include increases in collagen (more than 12% in 30 days) elastin (more than 40% in 30 days) and blood circulation (more than 30% in 30 days).(source). For more information see the Truth Vitality Lux Renew

Microcurrent

In 1982, researcher Ngok Cheng led a study that provided hard evidence of microcurrent's role in cellular vitality by proving that microcurrent increased levels of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) in lab-rat skin cells by 500 percent. For more information see the Truth Rejuvenate

Ubiquinone

Ubiquinone, the active antioxidant in Coenzyme Q10. It is accumulated selectively and extensively by mitochondria, in contrast to other antioxidants, which distribute evenly throughout the cell. So look out for ubiquinone in skincare. I am particularly impressed with mitoquinone mesylate, a highly targeted version of this antioxidant. For more information see MitoQ Serum and Supplements

Ergothioneine

By speeding the delivery of fatty acids into mitochondria, ergothioneine ramps up ATP production, making the fuel molecule more available to all parts of the cell. For more information see Skinfinite Platinum 30spf

Perfluorodecalin

By increasing capacity for oxygen uptake, we can create a perfect environment for ATP synthesis. Perfluorodecalin is a perfluorocarbon that mimics the blood’s ability to carry oxygen to the skin cells. It is used in wound healing therapies and for treating acne. For more information see Truth Vitality Treatment Gel

My main criteria for a lipstick are that it should contain no evil, be comfortable to wear and have lasting color. An added bonus is that it may even do some good. Hynt Aria Pure Lipstick ($29) passed muster on all levels and could be one of the best “natural” lipsticks I have ever used.

The first thing that I noticed about Hynt Aria Pure Lipstick is that it has the kind of dense pigmentation of a great, classic lipstick. My tester’s shade of Passion Plum was not really for me, but for my review process this is beside the point. If it meets my criteria then it is simply a matter of finding the right tone for me amongst the four available.

Smearing it over my lips, I loved the velvety texture. No gloopiness, or dryness. Just a perfectly comfortable lipstick. As for staying power, it passed the drink of water test, leaving nothing more than a faintly greasy smear with all the color still on my lips.

This kind of performance is rare in a natural lipstick. A lot of chemicals go into making sure that texture, pigmentation and time-to-top-up are acceptable. Looking at Hynt’s ingredient list, it is surprising to me that it works so well with — apparently — so little. There isn’t much to the formula besides organic waxes and oils.

A couple of useful additions also put this lipstick in the rarely filled category of makeup that’s good for you. Tribehenin is a typically a mixture of glycerin and a plant derived fatty acid that conditions and is a penetration enhancer. There is also a polyglyceride complex that is a natural alternative to silicones and lanolin and it moisturizes and improves the skin barrier function. Rice bran oil is a useful antioxidant.

This lipstick has been a great introduction to Hynt, a color cosmetic line that I am looking forward to getting to know. Hynt formulates with the following principles (according to its website): free of everything unwanted, honesty, complexion care color, only the best ingredients. Now who could argue with that?

It’s that time of year when headlines are urging us to lose weight in a month, get fit in 28 days or have the body you always wanted without actually changing anything you do. It got me setting my own challenge — skin fitness in 28 days. First I had to work out what would be the essentials of a 28-day skin fitness challenge and then I laid everything out in a calendar. I am sharing it here in the hope you’ll be taking the challenge with me.

For me, skin fitness is all about looking healthy, glowing and supple. I’ll need some daily essentials, some heavy hitters, tools of the trade and weekly treatments.

click to enlarge

Daily (mornings)

Morning goals are to cleanse, brighten and repair and so I want my products to be as multitasking as possible.

Cleanser: This is the basis of good skincare as a good cleanser does a lot more than remove dirt. It should aid cell turnover and deliver antioxidants to protect the skin. My go-to is SimySkin Anti-Aging Gel Cleanser ($40 in the shop) with detoxifying moringa and a slew of anti-aging antioxidants to set my skin up nicely for what is to come.

Repairing serum: A heavy-hitting serum for daytime should (if possible) add some hydration, repair damage leave the skin looking its best. One that does this for me has amino acids that my skin just loves — BRAD Biophotonic Essential Elixir Multi-Peptide Youth Regenerating Serum ($95 in the shop).

Get some glow: I’m not thinking about a layering a moisturizer here, but getting some additional glow and suppleness. I have my eye on SkinOwl’s wonderfully simple Geranium Beauty Drops ($30 in the shop).

Daily (evenings)

Night goals are to hydrate and brighten and this is where vitamin C and AHAs really come into their own.

Cleanser: A nighttime cleanser is a workhorse that needs to get off the day’s makeup and grime. One that is surely up to the task is Elizabeth Dehn for One Love Organic Vitamin B Cleansing Oil ($42 in the shop).

Peel: Skin fitness has its own personal trainer with a daily “peel.” I am talking about gentle, but effective exfoliation to brighten and even skin tone as well as encourage cell turnover for firmer skin. Try my current go-to: Dr. Dennis Gross Original Alpha Beta Peel ($80 in the shop).

Vitamin C: The only vitamin that boosts collagen, vitamin C firms and brightens and I have become a convert with Dr. Dennis Gross Triple Peptide serum ($62 in the shop).

Every other day

The goal is suppleness and glow and this challenge means being disciplined about regular treatments with led and ultrasound and retinol where it counts.

Ultrasound and LED: all it takes is 10 minutes a day (longer if you have the time and inclination)

Retinol where it counts: I believe in treating retinol with respect, but there is nothing like it for kick-starting a regimen and moving sun-damaged skin into the repair zone. I am careful about when and where I target it. In my case, it is my neck that needs all the help it can get and I use Dr. Dennis Gross Ferulic & Retinol Fortifying Neck Emulsion ($75 in the shop), alternating with a non-retinol neck cream — I prefer Soleil Toujours Daily Anti-Aging Power Serum for Face and Neck ($145 in the shop) — so that I don’t overdo it.

Twice a week

I am thinking about the extra boost of an exfoliating serum. With everything else going on in this challenge, I think it's prudent to limit this to a couple of times a week and your exfoliating serum should replace your nightly vitamin C serum when used, for an extra boost of brightening. For example, Sciote Illume Brightening Serum ($95 in the shop) can be used for targeting or overall with kojic acid as the key active, backed up by two AHAs: glycolic acid and salicylic acid. 

Once a week

A weekly face mask rounds everything out. It could be something like the Medi Spa Peel by Dr. Dennis Gross ($110 in the shop) with its AHA-soaked pads and serum with peptides and amino acids. I myself am erring towards Your Best Face Prep Microdermabrasion ($80 in the shop) for its pore clearing and antioxidant effects. Whatever weekly peel or microdermabrasion scrub you use should replace the daily peel in your routine for that day.

by Susan Lefaivre

I agreed to test out Kate Ryan Nutritive Oil Cleanser and Makeup Remover ($40) for Truth in Aging. I have combination skin and also am dealing with the aging process. I have always stayed away from oil-based products. This time, I wanted to explore the benefits of oil. I am 52 years old and want to try every product on the market to help  my skin from showing its  age.

I thought this would be a great way to cleanse my skin each night. It states that it’s “gentle, effective cleansing action leaves skin clean, nourished, and with the right moisture balance.” Sounds great in theory, but it did not do that for me. I always approach discovery with an open mind, so why should this be different? I applied Kate Ryan cleanser to my skin at night, hoping my skin would be nourished and smooth. After washing away the residual, my skin was dry and tight. When it got near my eyes to remove eye makeup, it irriated my eyes terribly. I thought maybe this was just a fluke, so I religiously cleansed my face every night for the next three weeks, until I decided this wasn’t a match for me. My skin was not any softer, and I did not see any change in it’s texture and it did not remove all my make up.

This product has some wonderful ingredients, including many antioxidants like resveratrol, green tea, caster oil, wheat germ oil, coenzyme Q10, pomegranate oil and the awesome DMAE, known to firm and lift skin.

I am very disappointed that I could not incorporate this product into my routine. One suggestion I would make is that it might be much more convenient to have the product dispensed on a soft wipe. This way, one would be able to see if their skin was really clear of makeup residue.

It has been said that you can tell a lot about a person by looking into their eyes. I think yet another story is told by the area around the eyes — fine lines, crow’s feet, skin laxity and dry skin can all contribute to a tired appearance and looking older than one would like. Smiling, squinting, and time itself are unavoidable factors that take their toll. Considering this, an excellent eye product has become the most valued item in my skin care routine.

I have just finished my four week test of Apothederm Hydrating Eye Cream ($40) but I will start when I first received it.  Checking the ingredient list I recognized shea butter and glycerin to help address dry skin and to draw in moisture, but I really look for the latest technology so I zeroed in on a peptide listed. Apothederm’s website states that Hexapeptide-21 “works within the skin’s own natural repair and regeneration system. Hexapeptide-21 is designed to stimulate collagen production and cell turnover to help improve the appearance of damaged skin.” This article provided me more information about hexapeptides as anti-agers.

From the first day of use to the end of the trial, I found a lot to like about this product. It’s a lightweight, unscented cream and just a small “dot” was enough to cover the complete eye area. I used it twice daily  and found it absorbed quickly leaving the skin hydrated and lightly moisturized all day and it also helped to plump up the under-eye area a bit. My regular eye cream (ExPürtise Effective Anti-Aging Eye Serum) had virtually erased the few fine lines and crow’s feet I had, and the Apothederm maintained the nice smooth results. I didn’t experience any problems such as breakouts or clogged pores during my test. I don’t have problems with dark circles, so I can’t say how well this product addresses them.

I have come to have high expectations from products and can say this one performed well and think it would be suitable for all age ranges. It’s also a good choice for men looking for an effective eye product, since it’s unscented and the packaging is not gender specific.

Call it moisturizer, day cream or lotion. Either way its job is to provide hydration that a serum doesn’t deliver, as well as environment protection, nourishment and and glow. I haven’t put together a Five Best moisturizers since 2013 and what could be a better time for an update than in the midst of a winter chill and following a year in which we made many great new finds. So, here is 2016’s Five Best Moisturizers with new discoveries as well some tried and true.

by Jan B.

A child of the sixties now in my sixties, my skin tone is now tone-deaf and fine lines are wrinkles! I’m drawn to skin care promises like hippies to Woodstock. So when TIA asked me to try Organic Radiance Ultra Nourishing Anti-Aging Elixir ($45), it was like being offered tickets to see The Beatles!

An avid label reader, I like the organic, chemical-free list of known anti-aging combatants in this product. The Elixir is a dense cocktail of many of the ingredients I have learned to seek for skin rejuvenation. It contains vitamins C & E and hyaluronic acid, my three favorites, plus many others that intensify their effects, such as CoQ10, MSM, Shea Butter and Alpha Lipoic Acid. ALA is claimed to be an even stronger anti-aging force than my three stand-bys. Also, I have been practicing aromatherapy, mixing my own concoctions for forty years, and was happy to see that certain essential oils known to improve skin are also in there, like carrot seed and geranium oils, with other antioxidant oils, such as hempseed, jojoba and pomegranate. Pomegranate has been proven to reverse sun damage (sign of a life well lived!) and is also said to offer limited sun protection.

I can’t list or describe all of the many awesome ingredients packed into this little bottle. They combine to make a pleasant, fresh smell and the elixir is rich, yet absorbs quickly without feeling sticky. A little goes a long way — two pumps for my face and neck. I used it prior to applying other products, because hyaluronic acid and vitamin C are a good base, helping to activate subsequent products. I also feel I can eliminate some other members of my gigantic skin care brigade, because this one product packs so many anti-aging heavy-hitters into it.

After a week of use, I noticed an increased clarity in my skin; it looks hydrated, with a more even skin tone  I think it’s too late for any product to eliminate my wrinkles, but they look diminished around my mouth (my main concern). As I continued to use it, the more improvement I saw.

The bottle states the product is vegan and cruelty-free, a must for me; I would not hurt an animal to satisfy my own vanity. But what about the silk proteins? I’ve heard a lot of good about them helping to restore collagen, but I knew I would not use this again if it involves snuffing silk worms out of their cocoons. So, I contacted the company. Here’s their response:

“We are aware that silk amino acids are primarily sourced and derived from silk worms. As we are a cruelty free facility, we do not support this avenue as our source. Our potent and beautiful silk amino acids are derived from a natural fermentation process utilizing a plant substrate such as molasses. Our amino acids are cultivated in a lab by wage earning free and self empowered human beings rather than by enslaved, disempowered and oppressed silk worms. In our world, beauty is not cruel.

Each amino acid is made from plant sources and is painstakingly purified. These amino acids are then carefully blended to match the optimum amino acid composition in collagen. By utilizing the unique delivery system in this amino acid blend, the skin now has available the amino acids necessary to beautify and repair itself on a daily basis.”

Wow. Not only am I very pleased with the results of this product, but I’m ecstatic I can take advantage of cruelty-free silk amino acids benefits for increasing collagen. All-natural ingredients, packed with tons of proven antioxidants and anti-aging ingredients, pleasant to use and effective. And how groovy that you can feel good knowing no animal has been harmed in your quest to improve your appearance!

by Elisabeth B.

Having battled dry hair since the age of ten thanks to genes which include thick coarse hair and a propensity towards hypothyroidism, I have spent the last two decades trying out almost every serum, leave-in-conditioner, masque, oil, "hair milk" and other names for overpriced silicones on the market. Adding to that my fondness for maintaining my once natural blonde hair (with my hair dresser's assurance that with green eyes I can "totally pull it off") makes for very unhappy hair.

I was very excited to try Dr. Dennis Gross Anti-Aging Scalp Serum ($54). While I have used many products for my hair, I have not used any specifically for the scalp. The ingredients include some excellent antioxidants including retinol and copper peptides, both which encourage collagen formation. However, the most promising ingredient is the Procyanidin-B2. This ingredient which is extracted from apples, was cited as improving hair growth in a study which is much more objective than claims made by company-financed studies. Procyanidin-B2 when coupled with adenosine has other studies backing it's success. 

I used the product as directed and it felt a little strange as it seemed to wick water away (you apply it to a clean scalp which is important as your skin absorbs lotions, serums etc. best in the first two minutes after the shower). Even though I  could not tell if my already thick hair was any thicker, it did seem stronger and more lustrous at the growth area. So, I thought my fiancé (who has more thinning hair than me) might like to try it. While he did not have the chance to apply it the full amount of time, after about a week he did notice "sprouts"!  I was quietly ecstatic and told him I needed to keep using it for my review. 

I definitely recommend this non-animal tested, mostly natural alternative to anyone looking to thicken their hair. The bottle is not that big (2 oz.) but given that it is just for the scalp, it could last a good amount of time which makes the price tag quite palatable.

I rather like the idea of an anti-aging eye serum made by a recovering Wall Street executive. If anyone would know the toll that long hours and stress can take on the eyes, she would. I also like that Elena Rubin takes a holistic approach to wellness that goes beyond skin care. I had high hopes for Elena Rubin Incognito Eye Serum ($119) and it did not disappoint.

Claiming to be an all-purpose eye serum, Icognito promises to firm and tone, erase fine lines and reduce puffiness and dark circles. I must say that when I first opened the bottle and released a thin, milky liquid from the dropper I was a little underwhelmed. Somehow, it didn’t scream heavy-hitting, multitasker. However, I couldn’t have been more wrong.

Within a few days, my under eyes were a little less puffy. Now coming to the end of my 30-day testing period, they feel positively taut. My eyelids are smooth. I am even thinking that it is having some impact on my crow’s feet — something that has been bothering me recently is the distinct impression that my crow’s feet have been worsening.

Incognito has certainly been formulated as a heavy hitting multitasker. One of the most dominant ingredients is chrysin, a flavonoid from passionflower that is thought to eliminate pigmented bilirubin and iron deposits underneath the skin (aka dark circles). As does the next ingredient, n-hydroxysuccinimide. Puffy eyes are handled by the peptide, acetyl tetrapeptide-5, which does triple duty as a humectant and improves elasticity.

In the wrinkle fighting corner we have Matrixyl 3000, a very reliable collagen-building peptide combo. Then there is an ingredient for combatting expression lines from the acmella oleracea plant (popularly known as the toothache plant), which relaxes facial muscles.

This little lot has most of the bases of a good eye serum covered, but it is worth noting that other good things include the moisture retaining pseudoalteromonas ferment extract, and gluconolactone, a free-radical scavenger as well as metal chelator. There’s another chelator here as well: trisodium ehylenediamine disuccinate. If you are wondering what this is all about, then it is worth mentioning that we can be in contact (especially via our tap water) with heavy metals that can be harmful to our skin. Chelating ingredients actually chomp up these metals and dispose of them.

Elena Rubin cares about overall wellness and has done a good job of creating a product with plenty of good things, including botanical oils and extracts. She is no purist however and there is the preservative phenoxyethanol (an irritant and potential neurotoxin), as well as the controversial sodium benzoate, which reacts with vitamin C and may damage DNA. Overall though, Ingonito is a well formulated eye serum that errs on the healthy and certainly performs as an anti-ager.

What five products are must-haves in your skincare regimen? We posed this question to Truth in Aging contributor Nina, a late 30-something with combination skin, and after some serious consideration (we know, it’s hard to narrow it down) she reported back with a well-rounded list of anti-aging essentials. Learn more about the top five products that give her noticeable results and why she can’t go without them. And don’t forget to chime in with your five favorites!

1. Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum ($34 in the shop): Mad Hippie makes my list twice, first with their vitamin C serum, which is a staple for me. It firms and brightens my skin, and (big bonus!) it blends perfectly under sunblock and makeup.

2. Royal Nectar Eye Cream with Bee Venom ($35 in the shop): Royal Nectar Eye Cream did a great job of filling in some new crows feet and firming the skin around my eyes. It's moisturizing and yet super lightweight, so it's wearable day or night and blends well under sunscreen and eye makeup. 

3. Your Best Face Control ($160 in the shop): YBF Control is an all-in-one for me. It smooths lines and also really firms and tightens skin. My face has more bounce and spring after a couple of weeks of using Control.  

4. Juice Beauty Stem Cellular Repair CC Cream($39 in the shop): I shy away from BB and CC creams as I tend to find them conspicuous but Juice Beauty is light, sheer and blends perfectly into my skin. You’d never guess that I’m wearing face makeup or such strong sunblock – SPF 30 with 20% non-nano zinc oxide.

5. Mad Hippie Face Cream ($25.99 in the shop): My second Mad Hippie pick is their face cream. It’s light enough to wear during the day and is also a great nighttime treatment. It softens the fine lines around my eyes and on my forehead, and like the vitamin C serum, firms things up.

What five products are must-haves in your skincare regimen? We posed this question to Truth in Aging contributor Nina, a late 30-something with combination skin, and after some serious consideration (we know, it’s hard to narrow it down) she reported back with a well-rounded list of anti-aging essentials. Learn more about the top five products that give her noticeable results and why she can’t go without them. And don’t forget to chime in with your five favorites!

1. Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum ($34 in the shop): Mad Hippie makes my list twice, first with their vitamin C serum, which is a staple for me. It firms and brightens my skin, and (big bonus!) it blends perfectly under sunblock and makeup.

2. Royal Nectar Eye Cream with Bee Venom ($35 in the shop): Royal Nectar Eye Cream did a great job of filling in some new crows feet and firming the skin around my eyes. It's moisturizing and yet super lightweight, so it's wearable day or night and blends well under sunscreen and eye makeup. 

3. Your Best Face Control ($160 in the shop): YBF Control is an all-in-one for me. It smooths lines and also really firms and tightens skin. My face has more bounce and spring after a couple of weeks of using Control.  

4. Juice Beauty Stem Cellular Repair CC Cream($39 in the shop): I shy away from BB and CC creams as I tend to find them conspicuous but Juice Beauty is light, sheer and blends perfectly into my skin. You’d never guess that I’m wearing face makeup or such strong sunblock – SPF 30 with 20% non-nano zinc oxide.

5. Mad Hippie Face Cream ($25.99 in the shop): My second Mad Hippie pick is their face cream. It’s light enough to wear during the day and is also a great nighttime treatment. It softens the fine lines around my eyes and on my forehead, and like the vitamin C serum, firms things up.

Dr. Dennis Gross Antioxidant Cleansing Cloths with AHAs ($18/30cloths) are described as multitasking cloths that remove makeup and cleanse skin with additional anti-aging benefits. My skin is 50 years young and tends to be a bit dry.

According to the Dr. Dennis Gross skin care website, these cloths are "saturated with a blend of ingredients to cleanse, clear pores, remove impurities, exfoliate, soothe inflammation, and fight the signs of aging." Like his signature daily face peels, two of the main active ingredients in these cloths are alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids, which exfoliate to remove dead skin cells and improve skin texture.

Did they perform as described?

I used the cloths exclusively for a 4-week period as my nighttime cleansing agent. The only area that did not work as stated was removal of mascara. After the first use, I found I needed to use a makeup remover first (for me that is coconut oil). Other makeup products were easily removed. I should explain that I use only a bit of under eye concealer, a cream blush stick, mascara (top lashes only), and lip color. I experienced no irritation during this test trial. The appearance and condition of my skin did not improve or regress. The cloths left my skin feeling soft with no drying affects.

I am very partial to the cleanser I have been using for well over a year. It also contains AHAs. With that being said, I would not change to the cloths as my every day cleansing product but would keep them on hand for a convenient travel option.

By Tammy H.

I received the Erasa XEP 30 ($160) to review approximately 4 weeks ago. I recently turned 50 and have noticed more wrinkles around my eyes and that some had started to deepen and become more pronounced. I have been looking for a product that would help reduce the wrinkles and tighten my skin in hope that I would look more youthful and refreshed. 

I have combination skin, oily in the t-zone area and slightly dryer under my cheekbones, on my lower jaw and neck. I used the Erasa XEP 30 as part of both my night and daytime routine. In order to see what benefits this product provided, the first 2 weeks, I only used this product around my eyes, on my forehead lines, around the corners of my mouth and on my lower neck. Along with this, the only other product I applied was the Truth Vitality Brow Empower with copper peptides to my sparse eyebrows. 

I visited the Erasa XEP 30 website to understand exactly what results from this product I should expect. One of the claims of improvement was that this formula included neuropeptides for line relaxing. I did not find that it relax my lines or reduced them in the 4 weeks that I had been applying this product to my eye area, but did notice a difference in my forehead wrinkles. I also noticed that the skin around my eyes seems firmer and that my eyelids look more youthful.

Some of the measured results stated that there was an increase in moisture content. I found that where ever I applied the product, my skin was dryer and flaky. After 2 weeks, I noticed my skin was very dry where I had been applying the Erasa XEP 30. It had started flaking on the hollows of my cheeks, along my jawline and at the base of my neck, so after applying the Erasa XEP 30 and giving it a few minutes to penetrate the areas applied, I added Ahava moisturizing lotion to those areas. My forehead is oily, so I did not have to add moisturizer to it.

Overall, my eye wrinkles seem to be the same as before I started using this product, but I am happy with the tightness that seems to be happening on my eyelids and around my lower eye area. For my forehead, I did not have deep lines to start with but in using Erasa XEP 30, they do seem to be less noticeable. My pores seem to be less visible and smoother overall where I have applied the product. I am not sure if I would repurchase this product unless I see a significant reduction of the wrinkles in my eye area and it was provided slightly more hydration for my skin, I say slightly more because my skin is oily so I'm not looking for greasy, just a soft and hydrated feeling. 

The product’s active ingredients included 3 types of line relaxing formulations such as XEP-30, X-50 Myocept, and argireline.  These 3 ingredients did work to relax my forehead wrinkles but I did not see many results on the wrinkles around my eyes.  The proprietary whey protein aided cells in producing collagen and to retain moisture and niacinamide (potent form of vitamin B3) helps to improve skin’s overall texture and reduce discoloration while improving elasticity. I do believe this has improved the elasticity overall including in the eye area. My skin around my eyes seemed firmer and more youthful looking. The proprietary polymers and microspheres gave my overall skin texture a smoother, more even look.

I plan to continue using this product until it is gone and see if with continue use, my wrinkles around my eyes become less visible. I do wish the product provide more moisture/hydration and was less drying. It seemed to penetrate too quickly so I felt the need to apply more of it than probably needed. I may change my view on repurchasing, if this continues to firm, tighten and smooth my skin with continued use.

I have a healthy respect for retinol. I appreciate what it can do to help reduce wrinkles, but I am also aware of the hazards of overdoing it — particularly for aging, sensitive skin such as mine. When asked to try out the Dr. Dennis Gross Ferulic and Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Peel ($88 in the shop), I was cautiously curious. Would it fit in with my current regimen that includes (nèe relies on) DDG’s AHA pads, would the results be worthy of a heavy hitter, and would it be too much for me? The answer is yes, yes and no.

Ferulic and Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Peels are designed to be used 2-3 times per week, at night. I have been using the peels twice a week. I have also continued daily use of the Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel ($88 in the shop), which means twice week I have been getting to have two peels. Surprisingly this has not proved too much for me. The results have been fantastic (with two caveats that I will come to in a moment). Plump, radiant skin and much-reduced freckles and dark spots. I expect, with continued use, to see diminished fine lines and wrinkles.

The caveats are that this peel does leave my skin a little dry. Using it at night, I initially did not apply a moisturizer afterward as I didn’t want to interfere with the peel’s performance and was interested to see what my morning skin would look like. Well, it looks and feels a little dry. Nothing, however, that can’t be rectified with a slightly richer-than-usual moisturizer. The other is that this is no quick fix. At least there were no overnight results for me. Two weeks in (which would be four peels), I did start to notice a difference, although I wondered if this was mostly just the effect of the daily pads. But now at the end of four weeks, I am convinced that the Ferulic and Retinol Peel is definitely a significantly augmenting factor.

The product comes in the form of saturated pads. To me they have a noticeable whiff of bergamot, which I find pleasant (but then Earl Grey tea is mother’s milk to a woman brought up in England). I rub the pads firmly over the skin as directed, lingering on areas that need the most help (dark spots, lip lines). Before tossing the used pad, I eke out the remaining product on my knees and elbows (thanks, Kim, for that tip!). I did not experience any tingling and certainly no actual peeling.

I think that one of the strengths of this formula is that is so well-balanced with moisturizing ingredients. There’s hydroxyethyl urea (comparable to glycerin, which is also here), squalane and moisture retaining phospholipids and sphingolipids. An interesting ingredient is the botanical extract, rehmannia glutinosa root, which is credited with regulating the growth factor, TGF-beta1, as well as type IV collagen (source). Ferulic acid is an important antioxidant that improves the performance of vitamins

There are a few ingredients that I would prefer to do without, including benzoic acid, a pH balancer, preservative and potential irritant, the possible carcinogens BHT and sodium benzoate. These aside, I would recommend Ferulic and Retinol Peel to anyone looking to give their anti-aging regimen a serious boost.

by Angela T.

Apothederm Moisturizing Cleanser ($28) is a non-foaming cleanser that promises to “remove make-up, dirt and impurities from your skin without stripping out moisture” while also providing protection against free radical damage through the inclusion of vitamins A, C, E. The consistency of the cleanser reminded me of Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser (though the ingredient lists of the two cleansers are really nothing alike). The cleanser did not have any discernible scent.

The directions advise to massage the cleanser into your face and neck for 10 to 15 seconds, to keep out of your eyes, and then to rinse well with warm water. I found that using about a nickel-to-quarter-sized blob for my entire face was sufficient for cleansing. I have a very oily t-zone and often wear a lot of base products during the day. I typically find that non-foaming or low-foaming cleansers are not powerful enough for me and that they often leave a weird filmy feeling on my face. Happily, I did not experience that at all with the Apothederm Moisturizing Cleanser. During my trial period, there were several days that I wore primer, tinted BB cream, concealer, a medium to full coverage liquid foundation, a light dusting of powder foundation to set the liquid foundation, blush, and then a makeup setting spray. I also use a wax-based eyebrow pencil. The Apothederm Moisturizing Cleanser easily removed all of these with one pass. After rinsing my face, my skin felt and looked clean and it was soft and lightly hydrated without any weird, filmy feeling. 

Although the instructions said not to let the cleanser get in the eye, I did test the cleanser’s ability to remove a few different non-waterproof mascaras. It broke down the mascara nicely, but the liquid consistency of the cleanser made it a challenge to keep out of my eyes. Thus, in a pinch, this cleanser will do double-duty in removing non-waterproof eye makeup and cleansing the face, but I would not recommend this for both purposes on a daily basis.

Apothederm Moisturizing Cleanser includes several ingredients that contribute to the inclusion of vitamins A, C, E. Retinyl palmitate and beta carotene also provide vitamin A. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, and ascorbic acid provide additional forms of vitamin C. Glycine soja (soybean) oil, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopherol, and tocopheryl acetate provide vitamin E.

Several ingredients contribute to the moisturizing properties of this cleanser: evening primrose oil, tocopherol, tocopheryl linoleate, carrot seed oil, and glycerin along with several emollients such as C12-15 alkyl benzoate, tridecyl stearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, tridecyl trimellitate.

Apothederm Moisturizing Cleanser uses mild surfactants derived from coconut oil, such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate and lauramidopropylbetaine. Disodium cocoamphodiacetate is known for cleansing skin without stripping natural oils. Retinyl palmitate and citric acid provide mild exfoliation.

There are a few ingredients that may be of concern to those looking for a 100% impeccable formulation. For example, tocopheryl acetate, phenoxyethanol and linalool are considered moderate hazards by the Environmental Working Group. PEG and PEG derivatives are generally considered safe to use, but should not be applied to damaged skin (source).

Overall, I found the Apothederm Moisturizing Cleanser to be a gentle yet effective non-foaming cleanser that easily removed a full face of base makeup at the end of the day. The cleanser worked best massaged into dry skin, so I ended up using a different cleanser in my morning shower. After an average use of once a day for a month, I had half of a full-sized 6 oz. bottle left over. Therein lies my main issue with the Apothederm Moisturizing Cleanser — the price per month that I would need to spend to continue using it. I don’t mind investing in skincare, but I prefer to be more economical with my cleanser budget. I have enjoyed using the Apothederm Moisturizing Cleanser and will continue to use the bottle until it is empty, but will likely use other gentle cleansers that are friendlier to my budget.