by Lisa R.

First off, supplements are a tricky category to review. Most supplements take quite a while to get into your system on a regular basis and yield results. That being said, I reviewed HUM Artic Repair ($60) supplement, stating it is clinically shown to rejuvenate the skin & reduce wrinkles. The coveted ingredient is lingonberry seeds and a “rare oil only available at HUM." I think the rare oil is also the oil from the lingonberry seed.  

From the HUM website, it said results found that the use of the beta carotene of vitamin A & vitamin E found in Artic Repair for 12 weeks improved skin roughness and scaling. It further said that a similar study concluded vitamin E among other antioxidants held modest effects in preventing sun damage. It seems that the Lingonberries prevented weight gain in mice and lowered blood sugar levels & cholesterol in a high fat high sugar diet. 

Considering I am writing this review after 4-5 weeks of use, I can’t say that I notice any results as far as my skin looking any better. It states it visibly reduces fine lines and wrinkles and improves skin hydration. Perhaps I haven’t seen results because I haven’t used it for the 12 weeks it says shows skin improvement. Or perhaps since I’m in my late 40s I’m too far gone to show results from the supplement end of things. Perhaps if I only had slight wrinkles I could tell a difference. Sadly that’s not the case.

 It costs $60.00 and that would be because they are very careful with sustainability, non-GMO, gluten free and premium quality.  All in all, I would say that if you also want a supplement that helps with a high fat, high sugar diet it would be worth it, because you’d get two benefits in one. But just for a skin improving supplement, I personally don’t think it’s worth the price, plus there isn’t enough in one bottle to get to the twelve weeks to see results.  

Stemulation has a new daily moisturizing product called Drench ($195), a heavy hitter that promises to restore moisture lost by retinol treatments, instantly reduce the appearance of wrinkles and provide long-lasting hydration. My personal experience was that Drench scores highly on instant gratification, but less on long-term performance.

The instant effect is remarkable. After applying it to my neck, I was immediately struck on how my skin looked instantly more even and felt silky soft. Rubbing it over the backs my hands instantly took away five years. They looked plump and pampered. Unfortunately, this effect did last more than a few hours and the dry skin of my neck and hands did not experience all-day hydration. My face faired better in this respect, but in this case my skin is intrinsically on the oily side.

From the impressive roster of ingredients, I can’t see what gives this instant pumping effect. However, my guess is that the instant wrinkle reduction is due to an opacifying ingredient, sodium potassium aluminum silicate, and titanium dioxide, which can make the skin look whiter.

The main ingredient after water and grape seed oil is pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, a favorite of Stemulation that can be found in its excellent Hi-Impact Serum ($185 in the shop) and a moisture-retaining ingredient that is said to improve collagen production. Moisture retention is also helped by a peptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, and early research suggests that it stablilizes the cells and helps with collagen production.

Another important ingredient that is given prominence is beta glucan. β-glucans are immune cells that ingest and demolish invading pathogens, they also give out a rallying cry to stimulate other immune cells to join in the attack.

An interesting ingredient is extract from the tiger nut plant. It is supposed to work on the papillary dermis, responsible for elasticity. This is just one of many botanical extracts, including goji berry, chokeberry, pomegranate and bilberry. One of them, verbena, I believe accounts for the strong scent (although there is a chemical fragrance as well) that to me is almost overwhelming, but others I tried it out on found perfectly acceptable.

While I did not love Drench (as I do Hi-Impact and Relance — both firm favorites of mine from the Stemulation stable), I feel that my reaction is a personal one. I’d love to hear if anyone has tried Drench and had a more positive experience.

SimySkin started as a business venture between you and Dr Uri Sagman. What hole did you see in the skincare industry that needed to be filled?

Dr Sagman and I go back a number of years: for the last 15 years we have operated a biotechnology company, KYTO IP. Together with SUNY, (State University of New York),  Kyto has developed a monoclonal antibody that targets solid tumors for which it has obtained worldwide intellectual property protection for its targeted Vitamin B12 platform technology.  Developing a biotech company to the clinical stage is very costly and I was looking for ways to “leverage” some of our expertise into a commercial venture, hopefully cash flow generating.  The skin care market came to mind as it is always approached through the dermatology side whereas it could be approached through the “oncology” side due to the exponential growth of skin cancers. Today, 1 cancer out of 3 is skin related: each year between 2 and 3 million skin cancers (Carcinoma type) and about 150,000 melanomas are diagnosed.  Vitamin B12, just like other key ingredients protecting the skin against UVAs and UVBs, like Teprenone and Capprylic Acid, protect the skin degradation and DNA damage.   SimySkin decided to develop in priority serums which, without being “medical”, could be efficient and novel enough to enter the “mid-priced market”   allowing:  a) prevention, b) maintenance, c) repair.

Dr. Sagman created a nanomedecine company that discovered the Vitamin B12 receptor. How does SimySkin utilize B12 in its skincare? Why do you think this is such an essential anti-aging ingredient?

Dr Sagman was indeed involved with a nano biotech company, this company however is not related to Kyto IP or to the Vitamin B12. As mentioned earlier, the Vitamin B12 IP was developed (not invented as the invention refers to the Transcobolamin B12 carrier protein) with SUNY (State University of New York). Today, Kyto has a portfolio of products candidates based on proprietary Vitamin B12 platform technology.

SimySkin uses Vitamin B12 as a “signature ingredient” with certain proprietary rights, it does not “own” Vitamin B12 which is called Colobamin as it is a water soluble vitamin which is key for our brains and our nervous system. It is normally involved in the metabolism of every cell, thus affecting the DNA. Why does SimySkin like Vitamin B12 and why is it essential? It helps regenerate skin cells; it hydrates and softens; it improves elasticity and firmness; it prevents, diminishes and repairs wrinkles; it soothes chapped skin and it attenuates, soothes old scars.

What new anti-aging ingredients are you excited about?

SimySkin does its best to be at the forefront of the research for new, natural ingredients which can be effectively combined with Vitamin B12. In our serums, we are excited with ingredients such as such as Hibiscus, Galactic acid, Essenkin, Seaweed extract and Globe Daisy extract. Hibiscus extract is one of the most powerful anti-aging plants active: it is rich in antioxidants,  increases the skin elasticity and gives a stunning boost to the skin.  Seaweed extract is rich in vitamins, minerals and promotes skin hydration and combines great anti –aging and anti-inflammatory properties. Globe Daisy detoxifies the skin by eliminating damaged proteins and other environmental stresses (UV radiation, smoke, pesticides). We labeled it as an anti-aging bodyguard as it provides protection to oxidative stress therefore reducing the effect of cell aging.

What type of skincare product should every woman (or man!) over 40 have in their medicine cabinet?

Serums!! They are powerful and more efficient than any other skincare product. Serums are concentrated with various active ingredients and you need to dispense very little. They are very effective, made of minuscule molecules allowing faster and deeper penetration in the skin. A serum deposits nutrients whereas a cream is meant for hydration. Note that the thicker a product is or the heavier the ingredients it contains, the more it becomes a barrier for penetration in the skin. Serums are great for people with oily skin or who like lighter and non-greasy finish or sticky residue. In addition, serums offer great results from reducing fine lines, increasing hydration, elasticity and skin radiance. SimySkin line is compact on purpose, we have now 11 products (15 SKUs)  and while we are working a few more products to add to our line, we recommend all our products be used by women or men: most, daily, others, bi-weekly.

Where you a skincare connoisseur before starting SimySkin? Have you altered your skincare routine since launching the company? What are some of your favorite products?

LOL, no, I was not a connoisseur. I am an investment banker and I was always intrigued (and impressed) by the “personal care industry”.  As a man, you get somewhat exposed to brands, ingredients through living with wives, mother, sisters ( 4 in my case), friends. Until starting SimySkin, I very seldom used anything on my face besides soap or shaving cream but since, for the last 25 years, I have been  spending a great deal of time in Palm Beach and I love the beach, I was aware of the damage caused by constant exposure to the sun. I must admit that since I entered the skin care business, I have been using some of the SimySkin products. As far as I am concerned, I use all the “him/her” products: moisturizer, cleanser (morning + evening), scrub in the morning and mask 2 or 3 times a week. To be candid, I have not come around using the SimySkin serums yet although I know (and I am told!) they are terrific!

What’s the most valuable thing you’ve learned about skincare since starting SimySkin?

Skin care is a very serious business: you are trying to manufacture products which deliver results and do not disappoint. The anti-aging space is even more serious as you deal with the promise to deliver something to a consumer who has expectations and is always very motivated and extremely well informed. Formulation requires lots of research and development to keep your products safe, efficient and innovative.  In that respect we are very thorough in doing independent testings of products as well individual ingredients and ensuring we comply with the various health regulators (CNCP, FDA, Health Canada).  When this is all done, you need to follow the numerous steps which go from manufacturing to packaging and marketing keeping in mind that you want to deliver an attractive and fairly priced product. 

SimySkin launched in 2014 and is still fairly new. What’s next for the company?

Indeed, SimySkin is quite new: first serum launched in February 2014, 15 SKUS completRed and presented at trade shows in February/March 2015, Communications campaign launched in February 2015 and sales in April 2015. We are now early November and we have had quite a lot of press: traditional and on line, TV appearances. SimySkin can now be purchased in about 7 or 8 different prestigious e-commerce sites in the USA, Germany, soon in the UK and France as well as a number of stores across the US in early 2016. For us, 2016 will be multiplying our marketing/sales efforts, participating in trade shows and adding a couple of interesting products to our line. All that while looking at the 2017-2018 horizon and fulfilling our ambition to bring to the market very powerful serums which, revenue helping, will require further scientific R&D.

When I first opened the January Labs Restorative Tonic Mist ($24), I was a little concerned because the packaging looks a little like something you’d see in a start-up store or on Etsy. Combined with not being aware of this brand before October, I was feeling a bit anxious about using it on my face. I’ve recently turned 30 and have combination skin, so I’m willing to try most anything that might make my skin look younger and healthier — but that willingness to try new products sometimes backfires…and my face has to deal with the consequences. 

My first experience with using the Restorative Tonic Mist was a bit unfortunate, though I mostly blame myself for this — I should have thought to test spray the mist first. January Labs Restorative Tonic Mist comes in a clear bottle with a spray top (like you see on non-aerosol hair spray bottle). I’d already been warned that since January Labs doesn’t use any artificial scents, the mist might smell a bit medicinal. The ingredients are clearly listed on the product, though, as well as directions, and after checking the ingredients list, I felt more comfortable using the product. So I washed off my makeup, did my regular cleansing routine, and then sprayed on the Mist before I put on my moisturizer. I generally use a daily alcohol-based toner (good old fashioned Olay), but I have tried a variety of toners both with alcohol and without — though all the ones with alcohol do seem to have better (though more harsh) success with keeping my complexion clear. I’m a big fan of witch hazel toners as it gets colder though, because it’s less harsh on my skin than alcohol, but still provides the clean feeling. The January Labs Restorative Tonic Mist uses witch hazel, so I thought it might end up being a great toner. The mist did not have a medicinal smell when I sprayed it, which was good news to me, and really didn’t have much of a scent at all. This is a plus for a product I might spray on my face a few times a day.

Unfortunately, other than the lack of scent, my first spray from the January Labs Restorative Tonic Mist bottle was disappointing and left me with spots of product all over my face. So I washed everything off and tried again. The second spray was much more even (less like I had flicked water onto my face). It did give a nice refreshing feeling to my face, but since I’d just washed my face, it seemed a bit like overkill. I decided that, going forward, I’d try to use it during the day rather than after my regular morning/evening routine. Along the same lines, I had thought to use this product in place of my toner for a month, but after reading up on the product, I don’t think it’s meant for that purpose. Unfortunately, I wasn‘t thrilled with the idea of regularly spraying anything on my face in 85 degree weather, so the product sat on my vanity for a couple of weeks. Then, as the weather started to get colder, I could feel my skin tightening up and drying out. I started using the mist 2-3 times a day to keep my face moisturized. And suddenly I went from “eh, I don’t much care for this product” to “this product is great!” 

I will say, for a product with so many ingredients meant to minimize blemishes, like witch hazel, aloe extract, licorice, and calendula extract, the product didn’t really seem to improve skin imperfection or zits. For this purpose, I went back to using my alcohol-based toner morning and night. So, if you’re looking for a product for problem skin, I’m not sure this is the product for you. However, if you have dry skin, live in a colder climate, or just like the idea of spraying your face at various intervals in the day, I’d give this product a try. My bottle has about a third of product left and I do intend to purchase more — at $24, it’s a great price and, depending how often you use it, could last quite a while. It’s definitely refreshing and I can absolutely see a difference in the feel and elasticity of my skin on days I use the spray versus days I don’t. Overall, I recommend January Labs Restorative Tonic Mist for use exactly as the product name describers — a “restorative tonic mist” — not as a toner or any other normal face routine replacement, but as a nice pick-me-up for dry skin on a cold day.

by Linda A.

I am 57, and have mature skin that is losing its elasticity. It can be dry and lackluster. I live in chilly Michigan, so the constant heat in the house further dries my skin. During the testing period for SkinOwl Clary Sage Beauty Drops ($30 in the shop), I used only this product on my face so that I could best evaluate it for its effectiveness.

SkinOwl Clary Sage Beauty Drops contain only two ingredients: raw, organic, unrefined argania spinosa extract (argan oil) and organic clary sage. The essential fatty acids in argan oil are very hydrating to the skin, containing the omega oils linoleic acid and oleic acid. Argan oil also contains vitamin E (tocopherol), which is an extremely powerful antioxidant. These components of argan oil help to hydrate the skin and reduce inflammation. Clary sage increases circulation and is said to have antiseptic, antispasmodic, astringent and bactericidal properties. For those with oily skin and acne, clary sage also serves to regulate oil production.

I used the product as instructed, 10 drops morning and night, spread over clean, dry skin. The first time I used it, I loved how it made my skin look and feel. It moisturized my parched skin, and I felt like I immediately looked 10 years younger.  I could feel my skin absorb the oil like a sponge. My skin felt more supple, tightened, and refreshed. In the mirror, I appeared to have a radiance, a glow. My wrinkles were softened and smoothed. So, although I didn’t know if there would be long term benefits, I loved how this product made me look immediately after I applied it!

There was only one inconvenience with the Beauty Drops. My bangs picked up the oil from my forehead and I found I needed to shampoo more often. (However, argan oil is great for the hair too, so it sure looked great after I washed it!) I was careful to use Skin Owl Clary Sage Beauty Drops as directed during this trial period, but in the future I plan to use a little less. Then I think oily hair will not be an issue.

As time went on, I began to feel like I didn’t want to part with this product after it was gone. I loved how it made me look, and I began to see cumulative benefits. I do believe that my skin is more tightened and firm after a month of use, and it is DEFINITELY more smooth, soft and supple. I do believe my skin tone is more even. I even tried a tiny bit under the eyes with some regularity (not enough to creep up into the eyes themselves). It does appear to have reduced my under-eye inflammation and puffiness.

Although this is a very simple product, I am very impressed with it! I love the radiance it creates. I will add back in some of my other products eventually, but would like to apply a few drops of Skin Owl Beauty Drops Clary Sage on clean skin first, twice a day. I am not willing to part with the results I see!

We all love a bargain, but how to know if skin care really is good value? What I look for are products that punch above their price point. These are skincare products that do their job because they have been made with intelligence and care and I know that my money is going into ingredients, not packaging.

Here is my criteria: well formulated ingredients (and I don’t mean high concentrations of an active — in fact, that can be an indication of a not-so-good formulation) with a good encapsulation or delivery system; a roster of good quality botanicals ingredients; one or more high impact active.

And now for my selection. They aren’t always the cheapest, but they punch above their price point and are worth high fives from us.

SkinOwl ‘s mantra is that results are all about ingredients. This is well demonstrated by Eye+ ($46 in the shop), a damn good eye cream that is packed with no less than 13 amino acids, essential to the synthesis of collagen and elastin, and tons of other impressive anti-agers and botanicals. Oh, and it works.

At the other end of the SkinOwl spectrum, it doesn’t get much simpler than the Beauty Drops ($30 in the shop), which are a base of 100% raw unfiltered argan oil and either Geranium Oil a moisturizer for uneven skin, or Clary Sage for aging skin.

On the subject of oils, Your Best Face Private Reserve are a great example of how oil-based serums can deliver potent actives without diluting them in water that then requires compromising stabilizers. Private Reserve Antioxidant Oils ($75 in the shop) are a cost-effective way of getting a decent dose of YBF’s signature free radical scavengers, spin trap and Lipochroman-6.

The same can be said of YBF Antioxidants Concentrate in that you get the best of YBF’s key actives ($55 in the shop) and would be a good option for those who prefer a cream to an oil.

A good dose of one of my favorite actives comes with iS Clinical Copper Mist ($38 in the shop), an incredibly simple delivery mechanism for copper peptides. This collagen-building active is relatively expensive and difficult to formulate with and this mist gives a refreshing burst of it. Great for before or after an LED treatment.

Mad Hippie’s Vitamin A Serum ($32.99 in the shop) uses a new form of retinol called retinyl retinoate and which is more suitable for sensitive skin. As always, Mad Hippie opts for a nature’s brew of actives (although I’m disappointed that there isn’t cannabis here) and earns a loyal base of budget conscious fans.

I always do a double take when reminded of the price of Dr. Dennis Gross Triple C Peptide Firming Oil ($62 in the shop), which is the best vitamin C serum that I have found. In addition to three types of vitamin C, there are vitamins K, A, D and E.

Since all good things seem to come in threes in this serum, there are three peptides: tetrapeptide-21, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tripeptide-28. This is one heavy hitter.

Skinfinite LOL Eye Serum ($49 in the shop) has been a favorite with the Truth In Aging community for a few years now. This is a good all-rounder with ingredients to tackle crow’s feet and wrinkles, dark circles and under-eye bags.

The pocketbook always benefits from a multi-tasking day and night cream and we have two. La Vie Celeste’s Day & Night Face Cream ($65 in the shop) has the brand’s two signature actives, alpha lipoic acid and a peptide for firming the skin, with an all-natural formula and no nasties. Jenetiqa Premiere Essence Day & Night Anti-Aging Serum and Dark Spot Corrector ($65 in the shop) is a serum and dark spot cream for day and night use with arbutin, vitamin C, ellagic acid and niacinamide.

All-day hydration, and instant glow and a slew of antioxidants comes with SimySkin Hydrating & Nourishing Face Moisturizer ($45 in the shop).  I love that it gives pride of place to one of my favorite antioxidants, astaxanthin. There’s a stable form of vitamin C, beta-glucans, alpha lipoic acid, white tea and on and on….

For nature lovers, we have two eye serums that do not compromise on ingredients. Sevani Ageless Eyes Revitalizing Eye Serum ($54 in the shop) is a blend of essential oils, including jojoba, argan, sea buckthorn berry and rosehip. ExPürtise Effective Eye Serum ($65) thinks it is a $100-plus product with an impressive ability to lift lids. It is packed with peptides such as Matrixyl 3000 and Synth’6, which (trust me) are expensive raw ingredients to formulate with and ensure that ExPürtise packs a punch.

by Noel W.

At 53 years old, my skin is becoming drier, yet I am still prone to breakouts. I also have large pores, some fine lines and jowls developing, mild rosacea-like redness and a few small sunspots.

Prior to testing Organic Radiance Ultra Nourishing Anti-Aging Elixir ($40.50 in the shop), I checked out the Organic Radiance website and was pleased to discover that, in addition to being loaded with antioxidants, vitamins, peptides, plant stem cells, and oils, this elixir is all natural, vegan friendly, and contains only natural preservatives. The list of ingredients is impressive and the benefits are easily found on the TIA site.Key ingredients include a healing organic herbal infusion — aloe, gotu kola, horsetail, geranium and dandelion, vitamin c which is a key antioxidant, as well as rosehip seed oil, which is high in antioxidants and fatty acids. There's also MSM, which brightens and repairs skin.

Some of the product claims include that it will repair damaged areas, build collagen and firm skin, smooth and nourish skin, and diminish wrinkles. Ever the skeptic and having tried so many products that just didn’t deliver, my attitude was to give it a go, yet I didn’t hold out much hope for truly experiencing any difference in my skin.

When I started testing this elixir, I was initially put off by the color and strong, odd scent. The bright yellow color gave a slight tint to my fair skin which was apparent because I was testing only one side of my face; when I once used it on both sides, the color change was then only slightly perceptible as both sides matched. I imagine it would not even be noticeable on anyone with a shade darker skin color. I usually don’t mind fragranced products, but the scent was so strong and not pleasant to me — sort of a not-quite-fruit and spice blend — and although it eventually faded, it was still easily noticeable more than an hour later. I decided to see if the performance would outweigh the unpleasantness. Now I’m glad I didn’t give up on this prematurely.

Initially, I liked that this cream is packaged in a dark plastic bottle with a pump dispenser that makes it easy to control the amount you use and I had no difficulty with dispensing the product…that is until much of the product had been used and the remainder was thick and clung to the insides of the bottle where it couldn’t be pumped out. I had to repackage the remainder into a tiny pot so that I could finish it without wastage. I applied this morning and night to one side of my face and neck after cleansing. Just a little of this cream is all it takes, and it smooths nicely on the skin and seems to melt in.

I was especially concerned that this cream would cause more blemishes, but — yippee — my face is now clearer on the side where I applied this! I find that I can often skip using a moisturizer and not fear the flakes when I apply makeup. My skin is smoother and calmer overall with less redness, smaller pores around my nose area, and the fine wrinkles around my eye and lips seem to be diminishing; however, there is one stubborn deeper crease above my upper lip that is holding strong. I can’t say that I have noticed any firming yet, especially on the jowls/neck area, but I’m curious to see if this will occur with continued use. While testing this cream on only one side of my face/neck certainly made it possible for me to notice the skin changes more readily, I now have to wait for the other side to catch up! I have come to tolerate the strong scent, but it is still very off-putting. However, the payoff in the way my skin has responded to this cream makes it worth it. I am pleasantly surprised that this was not just another dud product, even at this price point.

by Linda B.

Dr. Dennis Gross, a well-known NYC dermatologist, and a rock star to his patients, has developed an impressive collection of targeted, age-battling products which are now available to the rest of us. Dr. Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Triple Correction Eye Serum ($68) offers new hope (even to we ladies of a certain vintage) in the form of a gel-like eye serum that promises to lighten, brighten, de-puff and reduce crinckles in that problem area surrounding the windows to our souls.

I was asked to test this product and report my observations and results. First, a primer on the active ingredients; retinol and ferulic acid, which are antioxidant powerhouses, caffeine and licorice root extract, which promise to firm and brighten the skin. Retinol, which has been widely-used in the skincare industry, was first introduced as an anti-acne treatment in the 1970s. It soon found its way into skincare products and is widely recognized today as a treatment that addresses the appearance of wrinkles, elasticity and discoloration, by boosting cell turnover, making way for new cell growth and interrupting the collapse of collagen, by strengthening the deeper layers of skin, where wrinkles begin. Less well-known, but equally promising is ferulic acid, which is found in the seeds of fruits, vegetables and grains. Ferulic acid is a super-antioxidant that fights free-radical damage that leads to premature aging. These ingredients are combined in a lightweight serum that is packages in a per-dose pump bottle.

Having tested this eye serum for almost six weeks, here are my impressions. I loved the “slip” of this product; it is neither a traditional gel, nor a liquid serum, more like the consistency of a liquid gel. It dries down to a natural finish, without a greasy look/feel, or a pulling/tightening feeling. My concealer, which I sadly still need, went on without pilling or streaking, which is sometimes a problem with layering concealer over many eye products. I also observed a reduction of crepiness on my upper lid. I did not notice any de-puffing or brightening of my under-eye area. Crow’s feet? Perhaps a slight reduction, but there was a significant bonus not touted by any of the literature: this product has made my eyelashes grow! And not only grow, it has regenerated growth of dormant follicles. I actually have new lashes growing in. But wait, there’s more: I think I see new growth on the outer corners of my eyebrows, which have noticeably thinned in recent years. I love unintended consequences when they are beneficial!

In summary, I liked many things about this product. I will finish the bottle and hope for even more visible improvements. Sometimes it takes a little longer for the full effects of a product to “work their magic” on those of us who are 60+. I am happy to have had the opportunity to review this product and hope my observations are of value .

One of the big breakthroughs in the science of aging was the recent Nobel Prize-winning discovery of the role of telomeres. So far few cosmetic ingredients have been associated with this mechanism and so I was super excited to come across a new one. With the unlikely name of prawn sage, it is the signature ingredient of Bottega Organica and is featured in their wonderful Multi-active Face Serum with Grape, Apricot & Wheat Germ ($88 in the shop).

Bottega Organica is a new brand discovery and it speaks directly to me with an integrated blend of science and all-natural ingredients — the tag line is “designed by science, made from nature.” The company was founded by a geneticist, Dr. Andrea Alimonti, who screened thousands of plant extracts to test their impact on human cells. The winners became the basis of this new skincare line with prawn sage as the botanical anti-aging hero.

Prawn sage (salvia haenkei) is part of the sage family and has flame-colored flowers. Supposedly, it can slow down cellular aging due to its ability to lengthen telomeres. Telomeres allow cells to distinguish chromosome ends from broken DNA. If DNA is broken there are two options after the cell cycle is stopped: repair or death. Telomeres shorten every time a cell divides. When they become very short, they trigger cell crisis and cell death. There are a couple of actives, such as Renovage, that are supposed to stabilize the telomeres, but this is the first time that I have come across something that actually claims to lengthen them. It should be noted that I have not found independent research to corroborate these claims for prawn sage.

I can, though, vouch for Multi-active Face Serum with Grape, Apricot & Wheat Germ. This is a lovely plant-based serum that leaves my skin feeling healthily nourished and soft all day long. I have also noticed a subtle firming and an improvement in lines. I do not need to layer a moisturizer over it, but then my skin is a little oily. The instructions say to use it at night and so this has become my nighttime treatment. Although I must admit that I so enjoy the refreshed look it gives my skin that I have been sneaking it on some mornings as well.

Most of the plants in this potion are grown on Bottega Organica’s own farms in New York and Italy. They represent the antioxidants that came up, alongside prawn sage, as effective antiagers in Dr Alimonti’s research: wheat germ, grape and apricot. These all have good research pedigrees, as does French lilac, an antioxidant associated with increasing superoxide dismutase (source). Best of all, there are no nasties. Not one.

There are plenty of newcomers in my current regimen, as well as some old faithfuls. What’s more, when I audit what is working for me right now, I can see some new heroes in the making.

Here’s one of them. Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel pads ($88 in the shop) are well and truly part of my regimen. They were a feature of the last What’s Working For Me back in September and four months on they are definitely a keeper. I would go so far as to say this two-step system has been transformative. I swear that I don’t have a single open pore, my leopard spot is fading and my lip lines are diminishing.

A surprising addition is a Ferulic & Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Peel ($88 in the shop). This is a new product from the Dr. Dennis Gross oevre and is designed to be used 2-3 times a week. I have kept them on after my testing period, as I do appreciate the help they are giving my neck and deeper lines, but find that, for me, once a week is enough.

My eyes are really loving two new serums. I use the Niod Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate ($65) in the morning. I found that it really is firming and the roster of actives, with plenty of peptides, is truly impressive. Another eye serum that punches way above its price is SkinOwl Eye+ ($46 in the shop) and I use it at night for its depuffing qualities and slew of amino acids that make my skin look younger and rested.

As a result of testing an eyelash growth product, I can bat long, black lashes with some pride. Unfortunately, the active seems to be coral and I can’t bear the idea of harvesting a protected marine environment for the sake of long lashes and ditched it. I do like the effect though, so I’ve taken to using AQ Lash ($135).

As far as face serums go, I have incorporated Rejuvel 3D ($149 in the shop) into my regimen and layer it with either E’shee’s KI ($189 in the shop) or MitoQ, ($119 in the shop), two firm favorites and that I still find hard to beat. At night I am alternating between my latest find from Bottega Organica, the Multi-Active Face Serum ($88 in the shop) and Dr. Dennis Gross Triple C Peptide Firming Oil ($62 in the shop). As the days are colder and dryer, I find I do need a moisturizer and I fall back on the lovely and soothing one from I Pekar ($78 in the shop) and have very recently started to use SkinOwl’s wonderfully (deceptively) simple Geranium Beauty Drops ($30 in the shop).

With a dogged focus on my neck (this will be the year that I get it in sync with my face, I swear), I am using my Truth Vitality Lux Renew ($279 in the shop) with renewed vigor on face as well as neck and alternating ultrasound and red LED. I also use the above-mentioned DDG Alpha Beta Peel pads daily and my neck creams are Soleil Toujours Daily Anti-Aging Power Serum for Face & Neck ($145 in the shop) Dr. Dennis Gross Ferulic & Retinol Fortifying Neck Emulsion ($75 in the shop). This neck regimen does seem to paying off.  

Finally, I should mention that winter lips need Your Best Face Quench ($15 in the shop) and I am always impressed by how long a smear of it lasts. This is not one of those balms that require continuous reapplication. In my case, winter shoes and thick tights leave me with rough, uncomfortable feet and Pure Glam Peppermint Grapefruit Hand and Foot Repair ($28 in the shop) has been a godsend.

There are plenty of newcomers in my current regimen, as well as some old faithfuls. What’s more, when I audit what is working for me right now, I can see some new heroes in the making.

Here’s one of them. Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel pads ($88 in the shop) are well and truly part of my regimen. They were a feature of the last What’s Working For Me back in September and four months on they are definitely a keeper. I would go so far as to say this two-step system has been transformative. I swear that I don’t have a single open pore, my leopard spot is fading and my lip lines are diminishing.

A surprising addition is a Ferulic & Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Peel ($88 in the shop). This is a new product from the Dr. Dennis Gross oevre and is designed to be used 2-3 times a week. I have kept them on after my testing period, as I do appreciate the help they are giving my neck and deeper lines, but find that, for me, once a week is enough.

My eyes are really loving two new serums. I use the Niod Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate ($65) in the morning. I found that it really is firming and the roster of actives, with plenty of peptides, is truly impressive. Another eye serum that punches way above its price is SkinOwl Eye+ ($46 in the shop) and I use it at night for its depuffing qualities and slew of amino acids that make my skin look younger and rested.

As a result of testing an eyelash growth product, I can bat long, black lashes with some pride. Unfortunately, the active seems to be coral and I can’t bear the idea of harvesting a protected marine environment for the sake of long lashes and ditched it. I do like the effect though, so I’ve taken to using AQ Lash ($135).

As far as face serums go, I have incorporated Rejuvel 3D ($149 in the shop) into my regimen and layer it with either E’shee’s KI ($189 in the shop) or MitoQ, ($119 in the shop), two firm favorites and that I still find hard to beat. At night I am alternating between my latest find from Bottega Organica, the Multi-Active Face Serum ($88 in the shop) and Dr. Dennis Gross Triple C Peptide Firming Oil ($62 in the shop). As the days are colder and dryer, I find I do need a moisturizer and I fall back on the lovely and soothing one from I Pekar ($78 in the shop) and have very recently started to use SkinOwl’s wonderfully (deceptively) simple Geranium Beauty Drops ($30 in the shop).

With a dogged focus on my neck (this will be the year that I get it in sync with my face, I swear), I am using my Truth Vitality Lux Renew ($279 in the shop) with renewed vigor on face as well as neck and alternating ultrasound and red LED. I also use the above-mentioned DDG Alpha Beta Peel pads daily and my neck creams are Soleil Toujours Daily Anti-Aging Power Serum for Face & Neck ($145 in the shop) Dr. Dennis Gross Ferulic & Retinol Fortifying Neck Emulsion ($75 in the shop). This neck regimen does seem to paying off.  

Finally, I should mention that winter lips need Your Best Face Quench ($15 in the shop) and I am always impressed by how long a smear of it lasts. This is not one of those balms that require continuous reapplication. In my case, winter shoes and thick tights leave me with rough, uncomfortable feet and Pure Glam Peppermint Grapefruit Hand and Foot Repair ($28 in the shop) has been a godsend.

by Shelly D.

After I entered my forties and began to see some accelerated aging and my skin care treatments full of chemicals, I began to research more natural ways to treat my aging skin. And so I was very intrigued when TIA asked me to review HUM Nutrition Turn Back Time ($40) age-defying cell protection supplement. 

HUM Nutrition is a beauty nutrition company that has created a whole line of nutritional supplements ranging from skin care and weight loss to detox and probiotics. The idea of Turn Back Time is to treat the symptoms of aging internally, on a cellular level, with the right mix of science-based nutrients.

Turn Back Time has a great list of ingredients with specific anti-aging purposes: vitamin C and alpha lipoic acid serve as antioxidants. Their Phyto Anti-Aging Blend includes green tea extract, turmeric, quercetin dihydrate, grape seed extract and lutein, which all have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

I’m a forty-five-year-old redhead with very fair, dry skin with some beginning signs of rosacea. I need all the skin protection and help I can get living in New England. The supplements are easy to take — the instructions say take 2 capsules a day with food, easy enough! The bottle contains a one-month supply of the supplement. I took 2 capsules a day for 30 days and I honestly didn’t quite know what to expect. This is a different approach to skin care and I have never tried anything like it before. Even the description on the bottle didn’t give me much to go on.

The bottle claims, “Exposed to free radicals? Don’t age unnecessarily! Turn Back Time offers science-supported advanced age-defying antioxidants and phytonutrient-rich ingredients including Turmeric and Green Tea Polyphenols to promote skin rejuvenation and cellular health. Take that, free radicals!”

I tried to pay close attention to any small changes in the condition of my skin. I didn’t notice anything for the first few weeks and I was losing hope. But close to the end of my 30 day trial, I began to notice a slight glow to my skin. And I think that is so interesting because nothing on the surface seemed to change. My skin is still dry and sensitive. The small lines around my eyes and lips didn’t diminish. The texture and tone of my skin hasn’t changed. But there is no getting around it, I have a glow.

If you’re looking for an addition to your skin care regimen that includes some science-based nutrition, you may want to give Turn Back Time a try. I love that there is science behind the ingredient choice, that it is a Non-GMO product, that it is sustainably sourced and made in the US.

However, personally, I won’t continue to use the Turn Back Time supplement. The results were slow to emerge and subtle. My skin tone, texture, lines and hydration are still exactly the same and those are the things that need help. And this supplement hasn’t done anything to change that. If I continued to use it, it wouldn’t replace anything else but would be an addition to my regimen. And I don’t feel the results warrant the additional cost. 

As an aside and in the light of full disclosure, this supplement made my pee smell like I was eating asparagus every day! It didn’t really bother me after I figured out that the supplement was the cause but something to consider if you’re thinking about trying it.

When TIA asked me if I wanted to try to SimySkin Phase II Anti-aging Eye Serum 25-45 ($85 in the shop), I happily said yes: I was facing down the last few weeks of my master’s degree and anticipating a run of all-nighters. I didn’t expect a miracle, but figured that a little extra support would be good while I abused my eyes with too much coffee and the inevitable frown your face settles into as you stare down your blinking cursor at 3 a.m. 

But a miracle indeed I got! Too much caffeine and not enough of sleep are hard enough on your eyes, but my poor peepers really took a beating when my sister’s ten-day-old baby landed in the hospital with pneumonia. Along with school, I was helping out with her two older children while she and her husband stayed with the baby. Between exhaustion and worry for baby, I was in tears at least twice a day, and living off of leftover Halloween candy and black coffee. I’m so very happy to report that her baby is fully recovered, and I’m also very happy to let you know that my eyes are almost as smooth as his little butt.

Not only do I look no worse for the wear, my eyes look better than ever — lifted, plump and smooth. My usual fine lines are filled in, my eye area is hydrated, and along with keeping my lids bright and beautiful, SimySkin also kept my eczema at bay. Besides the usual uglies that happen when you don’t sleep and eat crap, I invariably breakout with eczema; indeed, I got patches around my mouth and between my fingers, but my eyes stayed healthy and itch-free. I’m extremely impressed with this serum and, to get right to it, I highly recommend it.

SimySkin organizes its product line according to age (18-25, 25-45 and 45+; I’m in the 25-45 bracket) and uses nanomedicine technology to formulate its treatments. As I understand it, nanomedicine offers a more targeted delivery of treatments and, in the case of skin care, allows for deeper penetration of actives. The serum was very compatible with my regular routine. Though it feels rich and emollient, it’s weightless, soaks in quickly and blends well with both sunblock and night cream. My eyeliner did smudge, but some loose powder on top proved to be an easy fix.

SimySkin recommends massaging the serum into your skin and even gives you the tool to do so: atop the pump is a small gold ball (about the size of an impressive pea), which you use to massage the serum into your skin for better penetration. It was both stimulating and relaxing, my skin tingled pleasantly, and I imagine it helped drain accumulated fluids and toxins.

Vitamin B12 is the line’s signature ingredient. I’ve heard a lot about vitamin B in skin and hair care, mostly B3 (niacin), and I was really impressed by Medik8 Hydr8, which features B5. But vitamin B doesn’t seem to generate the high excitement that A, C and E do (at least not as far as I can tell), but the more I read about it, the more I want it. SimySkin says that B12 is said “to have regenerative effects — moisturizing and helping to prevent wrinkles, hydrating dry skin and relieving inflammation,” and further reading reveals it heals lesions, prevents dermatitis and gives skin an even tone and healthy glow. Folic acid, also a key ingredient in SimySkin’s Phase II eye serum, is said to support healthy DNA, which influences the length of telomeres. Phase II also features peptides including palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-7 and Lipopeptide pal-GQPR, which reduce inflammation and improve firmness. Hesperidin methyl chalcone is the ingredient I can thank for keeping my dark circles at bay, hyaluronic acid no doubt helped plump my exhausted lids, and Sorghum Bicolor Stalk Juice, (which I’d never heard of) lifts and tightens skin by creating a stretchy-film that pulls everything into place (it sounds dubious, but like I said, my eyes looked great).

Its non-active ingredients include emollients, preservatives and fragrances, almost all of which get a safe rating from the Environmental Working Group. The ingredients that do get bad ratings are the fragrances, the one disappointing aspect of this serum. They didn’t bother my skin, but fragrances are notorious irritants and I think it’s a shame to diminish (even slightly) such a fantastic product with a few bad ingredients.

The Phase II anti-aging serum is $85 but well worth the investment. And after five weeks of using this twice daily, I still have half a tube left and am excited to see what Simy plus some proper sleep and diet can do for my eyes. Again, I highly recommend this product!

When community member Ann sent me an article from Slate on a 10-step Korean beauty routine, I felt very conflicted. Korean beauty is certainly trending right now, but does it really live up to all the hype? And while Slate’s columnist was eloquently feminist on how a skincare ritual can be “a radical act of self-care,” my own reaction was 10-steps! Really!?

So what is going on with this K-beauty trend and how can we tell the good from the bad? I found myself in the midst of a motley collection of oddly named bounce balms, the inevitable snail slime and thought I may as well start with Sabbatical Beauty, mentioned at length in Slate article and made in the US but proclaims to be “influenced from trends in Korean beauty.”  One of those trends seems be to eccentric product names. Cabin Fever turns out to be a body wash, which makes a nod to Korea with soy and has a hefty 25% dose of aloe water, but is marred by an irritating surfactant that even the CIR says should have only the briefest contact with the skin before being rinsed away. The Dorian Gray Anti-Aging Serum (I told you the names were eccentric) looks rather good with peptides, copper and yeast ferment. Still it all looks very western apart from orchid extract.

The next step was to find some more hardcore K-beauty products, so I went to check out the Korean deptartment at Sephora. The first to jump out was a brand that looks like a typo, Belif. Curiously, it has a product called Hungarian Water Essence. This is water and herbal extracts. Not exactly on trend. Belif does, however, have something that I was assured is a big Korean beauty trend, a bounce balm.

Bounce creams are all about hydration for creating dewy and taut skin. Some of  them have even been formulated to jiggle in their jars. The very notion was enough to put a spring in my step. Once such bouncing-textured beauty balm is made by Dr. Jart+. Not only does Dr. Jart+ BB Bounce Beauty Balm jiggle, it is made from Nordenau Water. This water comes from a disused slate mine on the property of a hotel in the cute German town of Nordenau and has been attributed with curing most diseases known to humankind. You’d better Belif it (sorry).

I associate K-beauty with those sheet masks that you leave on the face for 20 minutes. Checking out Peach & Lily, curators of Korean beauty, I saw that they had one for $6 from a company called Leaders. Unfortunately, the second ingredient is butylene glycol, but most of the rest of the list is pretty good, especially considering the price, with plenty of amino acids, a peptide and botanical extracts. Another mask was much less appealing and not because of the snail slime. Ethanol, parabens, PEGs, phenoxyethanol…..

The other abiding feature of K-beauty is a preoccupation with skin whitening and brightening. Skipping over the unfortunately named White Power Essence, I noted that the majority of Korean beauty products contain a skin lightener such as arbutin, AHAs or niacinamide. 

My prediction is that the Korean trend is going to try to insert “essences” into our regimens. And if you are prepared to go with the 10-step idea, then why not. An essence is a precursor to a serum and Korea is where they seem to have been invented. Peach & Lily have one called Raw Sauce and it does have some good antioxidant botanicals. But like the products mentioned above, Koreans seem incapable of formulating without butylene glycol, parabens and alcohol.

Recently I was given the opportunity to test Sciote Advanced Retinol Serum ($68). Sciote, which is Latin for “know thyself“, is a product of Aldo Celeste and produced in Denver. I really like this company and their mindfulness to combining pure natural ingredients with cutting edge technology to produce effective, well balanced products. Last year at this time I tested Sciote Advanced Retinol Crème and really was impressed. Where the creme was a combination of retinol and antioxidants, the Sciote Advanced Retinol Serum is more of a supportive product. 

HyalurosmoothTM, canola oil, pentylene glycol and phospholipids have humectant and water binding properties that plump the skin, in turn supporting the skin’s moisture barrier. Thioctic acid and retinyl palmitate are antioxidants that scavenge free radicals and in the case of thioctic acid can actually recycle antioxidant free radicals back to their active state. Sciote uses the more controversial retinyl palmitate at 1.5%, which is actually not retinol but the precursor. It is generally less irritating because of the length of time it takes for the conversion to retinoic acid. Clear and bright skin is provided by the witch hazel, indian sandalwood (rarest and best type), salicylic acid and propolis. The interesting additions of gotu kola and horsetail plant extract provides a positive impact on connective tissue as they support collagen bundles which aid skin firmness and elasticity.

The instructions say to use the Sciote Advanced Retinol Serum under the Sciote Advanced Retinol Crème but as I did not have it, I used it under SkinCeuticals 1.0 retinol. I have used the product for a month, three or four times a week. Like the crème, the serum in housed in an airless pump canister. It is a thin, opaque liquid that spreads easily and absorbs quickly. There is very little fragrance to irritate those sensitive to perfumes.

My honest opinion would have been that it was doing very little for me. Then ironically, today as I started my review, my co-worker and I were discussing foundation and she told me my skin looked so plump and bright. Hmmm?  Sometimes changes are so subtle that we do not recognize them. I will definitely keep using the combination to see how my skin reacts with more time.  At $68 for 1.0 oz., I feel this is a bargain for an elixir of such supreme quality.

I have been testing the GuruNanda Pulling Oil ($14.99/8.45 oz.) which I was excited to try since I’ve been intrigued by oil pulling for a while now. Many of the “healthy living” blogs that I read have touted the health benefits. Oil puling is based in Ayurvedic medicine. Yes, it’s a bit hippie-dippie! The point of this practice is to aid in the removal of oil soluble toxics from the body. Obviously I have no way of knowing if this actually occurs. The important part here is the alleged benefits from oil pulling. The GuruNanda website states that oil pulling can help improve oral and systemic health, which can help alleviate tooth decay, bad breath, headaches, migraines, diabetes, asthma and acne, as well as whiten teeth. Wow, wouldn’t that be something!  

I received a 7-day supply of this product, which included 7 individual ½ oz. tubs. The ingredient list is short and sweet, sesame oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil, peppermint oil. More importantly, the oil was not solidified coconut oil, as recommended by some bloggers. It took two days to get used to swishing oil around in my mouth, but after that I did not mind it whatsoever. Peppermint oil is also included in the formula so it has a hint of mint to make it more palatable.

This product is to be swished about in the mouth for up to 15 minutes, and then spit into the trash. You don’t want to dispose of oil each day down your drain…  Afterwards you are supposed to rinse your mouth with water and then brush your teeth immediately. The reason for this is said to be because the oil forms a biofilm on top of teeth. Biofilm can trap microorganisms between the biofilm and teeth, which can create dental issues. Again, I have no personal knowledge about this. But, if you are really pulling toxins then it makes sense to me to brush your teeth afterwards. You are supposed to oil pull first thing in the morning before drinking or eating; I couldn’t t accomplish this, so I used it an hour after having coffee.

After my short trial, I had an interest in giving this product a serious go. So, I actually ordered a full size of the product, which I’ve used daily for over a month. I can tell you that my teeth and mouth felt very clean afterwards. I had my biannual dental cleaning during the trial and the hygienist didn’t use the ultrasonic water scaler for the first time in many visits. I am also a notoriously bad sleeper and I have been consistently sleeping at least an extra hour nightly. Naturally, I can’t say whether or not the product is responsible; however, I haven’t made any other life changes that I think would impact my sleep.

I’m very glad that I was able to try this and think that this product is a good one to use if you have been thinking about giving oil pulling a try. I have actually just ordered my second full size bottle.     

I have been testing the GuruNanda Pulling Oil ($14.99/8.45 oz.) which I was excited to try since I’ve been intrigued by oil pulling for a while now. Many of the “healthy living” blogs that I read have touted the health benefits. Oil puling is based in Ayurvedic medicine. Yes, it’s a bit hippie-dippie! The point of this practice is to aid in the removal of oil soluble toxics from the body. Obviously I have no way of knowing if this actually occurs. The important part here is the alleged benefits from oil pulling. The GuruNanda website states that oil pulling can help improve oral and systemic health, which can help alleviate tooth decay, bad breath, headaches, migraines, diabetes, asthma and acne, as well as whiten teeth. Wow, wouldn’t that be something!  

I received a 7-day supply of this product, which included 7 individual ½ oz. tubs. The ingredient list is short and sweet, sesame oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil, peppermint oil. More importantly, the oil was not solidified coconut oil, as recommended by some bloggers. It took two days to get used to swishing oil around in my mouth, but after that I did not mind it whatsoever. Peppermint oil is also included in the formula so it has a hint of mint to make it more palatable.

This product is to be swished about in the mouth for up to 15 minutes, and then spit into the trash. You don’t want to dispose of oil each day down your drain…  Afterwards you are supposed to rinse your mouth with water and then brush your teeth immediately. The reason for this is said to be because the oil forms a biofilm on top of teeth. Biofilm can trap microorganisms between the biofilm and teeth, which can create dental issues. Again, I have no personal knowledge about this. But, if you are really pulling toxins then it makes sense to me to brush your teeth afterwards. You are supposed to oil pull first thing in the morning before drinking or eating; I couldn’t t accomplish this, so I used it an hour after having coffee.

After my short trial, I had an interest in giving this product a serious go. So, I actually ordered a full size of the product, which I’ve used daily for over a month. I can tell you that my teeth and mouth felt very clean afterwards. I had my biannual dental cleaning during the trial and the hygienist didn’t use the ultrasonic water scaler for the first time in many visits. I am also a notoriously bad sleeper and I have been consistently sleeping at least an extra hour nightly. Naturally, I can’t say whether or not the product is responsible; however, I haven’t made any other life changes that I think would impact my sleep.

I’m very glad that I was able to try this and think that this product is a good one to use if you have been thinking about giving oil pulling a try. I have actually just ordered my second full size bottle.     

As you know, I am so committed to healthy hair growth that I created my own copper peptides-based line of hair care. So, I was very intrigued to discover Grow Gorgeous made by Deciem (the company behind my new finds from Niod and Hand Therapy). I have been testing Deciem Grow Gorgeous Hair Density Serum Intense ($50), which promises to make “hair visibly denser, longer, thicker and fuller in no time.” Could such hubris really take me to hirsute?

I was impressed Grow Gorgeous from the get go. Unlike many hair serums, which are oils (and oily), Hair Density Serum Intense is water based, is light and easily absorbed into the scalp. The dropper makes it easy enough to apply directly to the scalp and then I used finger tips to rub it in (the scalp, not the hair shaft, as per directions). I used it on my damp scalp after having washed my hair and before drying it. I found that on drying my hair, I had a little more volume and the hair at the base of the shaft was not only lifted, but also looked shiny and healthy.

I should note that I did not use the product daily as instructed but 3-4 times per week after washing my hair. I did experiment with using it on dry hair, but found that my roots would look damp and dark and it made brushing my hair difficult without spreading the serum along the shaft and things getting a bit messy looking. Really, this wouldn’t be a big deal on a day at home, but not quite in line with power dressing for work.

After a couple of months of using Grow Gorgeous, my take is that my hair is healthier and stronger. My hair started thinning with the onslaught of menopause and my hairline was visibly thinning. Hence I developed and faithfully use my Truth Vitality Advanced Complex ($49 in the shop) and the True Volume Shampoo and Conditioner. I use the Complex on my hairline after every wash and it keeps my hairline intact. Grow Gorgeous does not on its own do that, but I feel certain that it augments my treatments and is complementing my hair care regimen.

The star ingredient goes by the name of Capixyl and is a peptide with red clover extract. I started looking into this ingredient myself a few months ago and it is supposed to stop the hair loss process and help hair grow. Another complex with green tea and larch tree bark is also touted as a “hair growth galvanizer”, as is pea sprout extract (although I haven’t found independent research on these). Caffeine is also associated with hair growth and wheat germ with hair strengthening. Amongst the botanical extracts, there’s skullcap with flavonoids including baicalin, an anti-inflammatory.

Although Grow Gorgeous is not without its controversial ingredients, some that look worrisome turn out to be benign, for example PPG-26-Buteth-26 and the chelating ingredient trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate. More controversial are butylene glycol, chemical fragrances and phenoxyethanol.

It's been five years since I opened the Truth In Aging store and it is a cause for celebration and reflection. The decision to sell products reviewed by the community was not taken lightly and it transformed Truth In Aging from a blog to a business. And so my reflections begin with the business context — in media, beauty and retail — that we are in. Times aren’t just changing. They are cataclysmic.

A few days ago, I was with a group of women with deep connections to media and beauty. Our discussion was sobering. We noted that magazines were all but dead. Indeed, Facebook’s advertising revenue (during the five years that Truth In Aging has had a shop) has overtaken (by a long chalk) the entire consumer magazine business in the US. Traditional media still has some influence, but there are now new influencers online, on Twitter, YouTube and Instagram. They are where the action is and they have changed the business model. When once beauty brands would buy an ad (in a magazine or on a website), they now buy an article.

Yes, most of the influential beauty bloggers and websites are operating a payola business model. The brand is paying for a nice article to be written about them. It is advertising masquerading as honest to goodness content. By the way, there is only a sliver of daytime TV left that isn’t payola. If you think the world was always like this, trust me (I’ve been doing this for more than 30 years), it is much worse.

With this trend emerging, an online store seemed to me to be the most transparent business model that Truth In Aging could adopt. We review products, write an honest review and, if we like it, we offer it for sale in our store. Every day I am asked whether we’ll take payment for writing reviews and every day I say no.

I am very proud of the Truth In Aging store. It is unique. It is curated by members of our community, it is stocked by products that work and do as little harm as possible and we give exposure and support to a myriad passionate, talented independent potion makers.

The business of being a store can be daunting. There are all the logistical issues of inventory management and shipping. We try to get great deals on hard to find products and that has an impact on margins. This leads to the other big trend that has evolved during the five years that we have had the Truth In Aging store: discounts, flash sales and the big flame outs. Daily sale sites and Amazon’s pricing policies have created a consumer market that expects a bargain. All to the good, except when the model becomes unsustainable and we are now witnessing the demise of Gilt, One King’s Lane, Fab and many others.

There is more to the Truth In Aging store than getting a deal. People come to us for information, for the truth about what works and what doesn’t. I am always struck by the candor and emotion that people convey when they ask for advice on what to buy. We hear so many stories, some uplifting, some heartbreaking, some thankful when our recommendations have helped. All are from women (and a few men) on a quest to look better and feel better about themselves. And this is what makes the Truth In Aging store more than just a shop.

The past five years have been an amazing journey in a rapidly changing world. I have a very strong feeling that this is just the start and the next five years will see many more shifts in the landscape. All I can do is brace myself, thank you all for your loyalty and stick to the truth.

What has Truth in Aging done for you over the years? I'd love to hear your #TIATruth in the comments and on social media!

When I first started Truth In Aging and taught myself to scrutinize ingredients labels, I discovered that shampoo was mostly a downer. Despite the sulfate-free bandwagon, not much has changed. At one end of the spectrum, there are conventional sudsers that rely on chemical foaming agents, and there is silicone masquerading as argan oil. Curating a collection of hair care products that are effective as well as planet-friendly is a challenge, but here are the ones that I have come to trust to do the job they need to do.

Anti-Aging and Hair Growth

A classic is ReLuma Shampoo ($65 in the shop), which is much more than a shampoo with stem cells and B vitamins to encourage hair growth. My newer finds in the anti-aging hair dept’ are Dr.Dennis Gross Root Resilience Anti-Aging Scalp Serum ($54 in the shop) with copper peptides and an exciting ingredient called Procyanidin-B2, and Deciem Grow Gorgeous Hair Density Serum Intense ($50) with an interesting peptide that goes by the name of Capixyl. Truth Vitality Advanced Serum ($49 in the shop) with copper peptides for hair growth still holds up as our store’s bestseller.  

Shampoos

An old favorite of ours (with, it must be said, a devoted fan base) from Mukti has been reformulated and we are waiting on tenterhooks for the verdict from our community tester. While you wait, Pure Glam’s Luxury Wash ($26.99 in the shop) will give you hope for the future of hair care and convince you to trade up from your drug store faithful. Although Truth Vitality True Volume Shampoo ($29 in the shop) with copper peptides won’t make your hair grow, it will reduce shedding.

Conditioners

Briogio Blossom & Bloom Volumizing Conditioner ($23 in the shop) sounds like a serum with hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed collagen, panax ginseng root extract, and ginger root oil to add volume and strength. Pure Glam Performance Daily Conditioner ($26.99 in the shop) doesn’t detangle the hair, but adds in antioxidants. Truth Vitality True Volume Conditioner ($25 in the shop) reduces hair loss and adds instant volume. For a deeper conditioning experience, there’s Briogeo Don't Despair, Repair! Deep Conditioning Mask ($26 in the shop) to strengthen the hair and prevent breakages.

Treatments

My hair thinks it is getting a treat if I remember to brush it, which is another way of saying that I’m not really a hair spray kind of girl. Pure Glam Waves Sea Spray ($26.99 in the shop) made me a covert to a daily all-natural spray and scrunch — that is, until my husband purloined it. Briogeo Curl Charisma Leave-In ($18 in the shop) is not only a styling treatment that works, it brings some good things including rice amino acids. Briogeo Rosarco Milk Reparative Leave-In Conditioning Spray ($20 in the shop) is a frizz tamer, hydrator and can even be used to protect when using irons or tongs.